I’m in a 17th century church listening to French and Colombian artists perform baroque guitar music. Outside, cobblestone streets wind around white, Spanish-style buildings with red-tiled roofs. Bright bougainvillea and geraniums drape from the balconies. Colombia is a gracious place. And the colonial town of Villa de Leyva is positively genteel. For the past two years, I’ve been traveling south of the States. I’ve explored nearly every country in South America and I liked them all. But Colombia, to my surprise, I fell in love with—particularly with Villa de Leyva, founded in 1572.