Looking for an autumnal escape from the gray skies of London recently, I ventured out in full hunting season to the mellow hills of Burgundy. Spurning the attractions of Dijon and its quaint Mustard Museum, not to mention the wines of Beaune (I intend to return for the charity wine auctions in November), I traveled instead into new territory: the unknown hinterland of Auxerre in northern Burgundy, for no other reason than it was there and I’d never been before. A few empty cases in the Chamberlayne wine cellar may also have been a deciding factor.