Hi Alan, there are lots of good restaurants in Cotacahi, both local and expat-owned. Dan and I love to eat at the mercado – -our favorite booth is Dona Esther’s — $2.50 for a hug plate of carne colorado and a bottle of water. Other local-owned establishments you might want to try are La Llenador, D’Anita’s and El Turista (unfortunate name). And if you’re vegan (or event if you’re not), check out Bhakti — REALLY good and very inexpensive. Expat-owned restaurants to try include Casi Olivia, Serendipity, El Trebol and Casa de las Frutas. And the Monkey Bar is a good place to meet expats of an evening. Don’t be shy — just introduce yourself and join in the conversations.
As for getting from Cotacachi to Mindo, yes those are your best options, although Eunice Howe (unihowe@hotmail.com) often puts together tours from Cotacachi to Mindo that are VERY affordable. You might email her and ask her for details.