Blowpipes and Jumping Devils
Florence may be known for its elegance. But each June, Florentines revisit their martial past. This is when the ancient sport of calcio storico is contested among the city’s four districts, and the rivalry is intense. Calcio storico harkens back to Roman times, when it was used to keep soldiers fit and battle-ready. Every summer, the square in front of the basilica of Santa Croce is turned into a sand-covered arena. Teams of 27 men try to get the ball over the wooden fence posts at either end, while trying to stop the other team from doing the same. That’s pretty much where the rulebook ends. Fists, feet, and elbows are all fair game. Throwing a sneaky handful of sand is not unheard of, either. Even if you can’t appreciate the carnage on the playing field, you may admire the hundreds of drummers, flag-bearers, and trumpeters who greet each team as they arrive.