If you love House Hunters International, you’ll love this idea: In the Czech Republic they remodel castles.
In this magical country at the heart of Europe, you’ll find more castles per square mile than in any other country in the world. Not a big surprise in a land that has long been a major crossroads of trade routes and cultures. In fact, looming over the river and the cobbled streets of the old town, in the heart of the capital, Prague, you’ll find the largest castle complex on earth.
For 40 years, communist rule kept the country’s 2,000-plus castles a secret. But since 1989 many of these old, princely fortresses have been restored and updated. Even better, nearly 40 of them have been turned into hotels, where living like royalty doesn’t mean you have to sell the crown jewels.
And getting to them isn’t too difficult. You can find a good sampling of these castles-turned-hotels not far from Prague and the country’s main international airport.
Here are a few fairytale accommodations:
A renaissance castle complete with moat, Chateau Třebešice is located outside Kutná Hora, one of two Czech towns listed as UNESCO World Heritage sites. Italians Eugenio Percossi and Alberto Di Stefano bought the decrepit castle in 2000 and began restoring it.
The pair also owns an art gallery in Prague and an artists’ residence space in New York. Every summer they invite artists from all over the world to stay in the castle. In return for room and board each artist must create an installation. So far, more than 80 pieces of contemporary art are scattered throughout the castle and gardens.
When the artists are not in residence, you can stay in one of the five guest rooms, each an art piece in itself. Included are breakfast and dinner with Eugenio and Alberto, no small prize as all meals are prepared by these Italian foodies themselves.
Check out the “presidents’ room” that features four Jiří David pieces of the first two presidents of the non-Communist Czech Republic, Vaclav Havel and Vaclav Klaus. Rates start at $205 per night and include a three-course dinner and breakfast. See: www.Trebesice.com.
The five-star Chateau Mcely is an hour from Prague, deep in the Saint George forest. It was renovated by 1950s rock star James Cusumano and his Slovakian wife Inez. Chateau Mcely was once the hunting lodge of the aristocratic Thurn undTaxis family, and Mark Twain and poet Rainer Maria Rilke were both guests. The spa at this luxurious getaway makes its own cosmetic line, and at check-in every guest receives a secret elixir for long life, made from forest herbs. Rates start at $164 a night. See: www.ChateauMcely.com.
The main residence of the Thurn undTaxis family, Loučeň Castle, is now known as Europe’s only Labyrintharium. To translate, that means it has 10 labyrinths and mazes, made of everything from hedges to rocks.
The baroque castle, with its own Catholic church inside, offers a suite or two, but the most romantic option is Prince Alexander’s Cottage, a two-story tower with a sitting room below and a bedroom hideaway with a treetop view over the palace grounds. It comes with a free bottle of champagne. An hour northeast of Prague, Loučeň has outdoor courtyards, a children’s playground and regular festivals complete with fencing. Rates start at $174 per night. See: www.Zamekloucen.cz/en.
High on a sandstone cliff, Zámek Hrubá Skála is a neo-Gothic fortress in the recreation area known as Český ráj (“Bohemian Paradise”). The area is a geological wonderland of strange rock formations and you can take to the trails on foot or by bike. Look out for rock climbers and cavers who love the region’s sandstone pillars .
Zámek Hrubá castle was built by the Waldstein dynasty in the 1300s. Guests check in at the gate tower after crossing a steep gorge spanned by a stone bridge. With beautiful courtyards, an English-style garden and spectacular views of the ruins of the nearby Trotsky Castle. You’ll be tempted to send your fairy godmother a postcard. Rates start at $64 per night for a single. See: www.Hrubaskala.cz.
According to legend, the neo-renaissance castle of Zbiroh Zámek was built in the 12th century after a nobleman got lost during a hunt, climbed to the nearest hill to make camp and awoke surrounded by antlers. Since then, its royal walls have hosted such historical figures as Charles IV, Emperor Rudolph II, Ema Destinova and Alfons Mucha, the famous Czech Impressionist who for 19 years used one of the castle’s rooms as his studio.
During World War II, the Nazis used the cliff’s veins of semi-precious jasper to amplify radio waves and monitor secret radio traffic. Located just 20 minutes from Prague (and close enough to Pilsen to get the unfiltered, unpasteurized version of its Pilsner Urquell beer), Zbiroh has 52 rooms and apartments, Europe’s deepest well, a jail in which guests can stay and a medieval tavern where staff in period costumes serve roast boar and recite poetry. Rates start at $70 per night. See: www.Hotel-chateau-zbiroh.cz.